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West Buttress of Denali (MIT style)

May 15 - May 28, 2010
Official MIT Outing Club Trip Report (by Matthew)


The Characters:

Dan Walker
Darren
Eric Gilbertson
Matthew Gilbertson
Woody Hoburg



The first question: how to transport 100lb+ of gear? Matthew devises a solution.


First mission in Anchorage: obtain $800 worth of groceries,


and repackage into $800 worth of ziplock bags


We weigh our bags for flight. We are limited to 125 lb / person


Load it all in an airplane...


We aren't sure if VFR includes snowstorms, but our pilot is unfazed.


Soon mountains appear, along with blue skies.


Day 1: We arrive at Kahiltna International Airport


While setting up camp in basecamp, we are greeted by our first Avalanche


We're too far north for the sun to set at a reasonable hour. This is 9pm.


Day 2: We follow the well-packed trail across the crevasse-dotted Kahiltna toward 7800' camp.


It's t-shirt weather on the Kahiltna. Denali in the background.


We forgot the freeweights at home, but we improvise for some bicep curls.


Walking around 7800' camp


A dead bird is discovered under Darren's pack. We're not sure how it got there - pack dropped on it? Froze while looking for warmth? Foul play?


Day 3: Up ski hill and on to 11k'. We are followed by an army.


Digging in at 11000 foot camp


Melting snow for drinking water.


Eric provides some shade for the campsite


Day 4: rest day. 11k' camp is becoming a city.


Everyone weighs in on the relative merits of ramen vs. cous cous


The team at 11k'


We wake up to a dusting of snow


Day 5: Cache at 13,500' and return to 11k'. This is the top of motorcycle hill.


Top of squirrel hill


Cache site at 13,500 - just above windy corner.


Looking back down toward the Kahiltna


Descending squirrel hill


Skiing back down and enjoying the scenery


It's 1000 feet down to 11k' camp from the top of motorcycle hill


We upgrade our kitchen to include a dining room table


Dan tries out the latest in waterproof breathable footwear


Day 6: Move to 14,000' camp. Topping out on motorcycle hill


Squirrel ramp, as we affectionately called it


Electronics to recharge? No problem!


The view from the latrine


Matthew operates the BONE SAW! err ice saw.


Day 7: Retrieve cache from 13,500'. Big crevasses above windy corner.


Checking out the "edge of the world"


Day 8: rest day. The stylish entrance to our luxuirant campsite


The beautiful view from 14,000 foot camp


Picking 5 days of food to bring to high camp


Day 9: Move to 17,000' camp. Climbing above 14k' camp toward the fixed lines.


Huffing and puffing up the fixed lines


Nearing the top of the fixed lines at 16,000'


Climbing the exposed ridge on a beautiful day


Passing the top of Washburn's Thumb


Meeting up on the ridge to exchange pro


Walled in site at 17k' high camp. 10:51 pm.


Day 10: rest day


Watching climbers on the ridge below high camp


Day 11: Summit day! We begin with the steep traverse to Denali pass.


Above Denali pass we are greeted by wind.


Full coverage.


After many laborious steps, we reach the summit ridge. The specks are climbers below on the football field.


Psyched for the final summit ridge


Matthew and Eric on Denali's summit!


Moments later, Dan, Woody, and Darren traverse the summit ridge,


up the final steep exposed bit,


To the top of North America!


Summit ridge with a view


Back at camp after a long day


Day 12: Descent. Headed down the ridge, somewhere around 16,500'.


Pickets for running pro along the ridge


Soon 14k' camp appears below us


We give away all our extra food


And dig up the cache we left at 14k'.


Soon we are back on the road, an all-nighter descent back to base camp


Monster crevasses


Descending windy corner


A long way down, and miles to go before I sleep...


1:24 am on the Kahiltna


Back at base camp, Matthew bags another summit by jumping over Foraker


One happy team


Day 13: Back to Talkeetna for cheeseburgers!